Five Fabulous Autumn Walks in Cumbria
By Beth Pipe
“The summer sun is fading as the year grows old”
I perhaps shouldn’t start a piece about autumn walks by setting the
literary bar quite so high, but Forever Autumn by Justin Hayward
captures the season beautifully – I mean, who doesn’t want to kick their
way through autumn’s golden gown?
Autumn in Cumbria isn’t just about the beautiful woodlands though –
the fells change colour with the bracken turning from luscious green to
russet brown, the autumnal tides are higher and the chips on the prom
taste sweeter when there’s a chill in the air. Then there are the
inversions – a speciality of spring and autumn when the night-time
temperatures trap dense fogs in the valleys, leaving the fell tops
crystal clear and magical.
Here are five of my favourite autumn walks in the county – all of
them lie near or along existing Contours Walking Holiday routes and make
for a perfect short diversion – just be sure to pack a camera, as
you’ll be wanting to take plenty of pictures!
1. The Langdale Valley.
There are a number of fabulous family walks along the Langdale
Valley, and the best part is that they start and end at a rather lovely
pub. Park up in the National Trust car park next to the Sticklebarn and
head off on a lovely looped walk along the valley floor. The route is
broad and easy to follow, with only about 20 metres of road walking in
total.
If you fancy something a little more challenging, you can take the
clearly marked route up to Stickle Tarn, but don’t come down the way you
came; instead, take a short walk across to the Dungeon Gyll and come
down that way. It’s steep but easy to follow and offers spectacular
views back to Stickle Ghyll.
Or for something completely different (and definitely more strenuous)
take a hike to the top of Pike O’Blisco for breathtaking views of the
Langdale Pikes in all their autumnal glory.
The woodlands and bracken around the valley create a riot of autumnal
colours, and there’ll be a big bowl of homemade soup waiting for you in
the pub when you’re done.
2. Grange and Hampsfell
“I watch the birds fly south across the autumn sky…” See –
I’m at it again! But Grange prom and Hampsfell are perfect places to sit
and watch migrating birds coming and going along the estuary.
Hampsfell is a small hike with big views. Take a route up through
Eggerslack Woods and on to the Hospice at the top. From there, the
panoramic views stretch from Skiddaw in the north to Blackpool Tower in
the south. If you can resist kicking through the autumnal leaves as you
wander through the woods, you might just spot a deer or two.
Once you’re done, head back down into the village, nip into the
chippy for a freshly cooked fish supper and take it down to the prom.
There you will find plenty of benches to sit and watch the migrating
birds coming and going along the estuary as the sun goes down. It’s
worth checking the tide times too; as the autumnal high tides race in,
they push the wading birds closer to the shore and your chippy tea can
be enjoyed against a soundtrack of oystercatchers and curlews.
3. Red Screes
If you wake up and the weather outside looks foggy and grey, leap
into the car with a hot flask of coffee and a big bag of sarnies and
take off for Red Screes – one of the very best places to see an
inversion. I always think Red Screes is a bit of a cheat of a fell
because you can drive halfway up it, but the views are spectacular.
Wind your way up Kirkstone Pass and park in the car park opposite the Kirkstone Pass Inn
(handy for a good meal afterwards). From there, take the signposted
footpath at the far end of the car park and follow it all the way up
onto the summit (it’s very clear the whole way up with stone steps for
much of the way, but still be sure to go properly clothed and equipped).
By now you should have popped out of the top of the inversion and can
enjoy a day of brilliant sunshine and magnificent views, while everyone
else blunders around in the fog down below.
If you’re particularly lucky you may even get to see a Broken
Spectre, where the sun creates a rainbow around your shadow as it
reflects off the nearby clouds.
4. Burns Beck Moss
This is one that most people never see – it’s a tiny little tucked-away
Cumbria Wildlife Trust nature reserve, around 5 miles east of Kendal
(just south of Killington Reservoir if you’re trying to find it on a
map).
There’s a very short waymarked route around the site which won’t take
you long at all, but in the autumn it’s a good old mish mash of coloured
grasses and golden waterlillies.
If you’re feeling more adventurous, grab your map and check out the
walks over to the Lune Valley and Killington village – there are superb
views of the Howgills, a much underrated group of hills which look
particularly pretty when it snows.
This really is a very quiet and out-of-the-way walk, and I can pretty
much guarantee you’ll have the whole place to yourselves (unless we’re
there).
5. Wansfell
I absolutely love Wansfell in the autumn – there’s just something
about the colours there that makes the place special. The route from
Town End is such a clear, broad track that you can enjoy the sunset from
High Skelghyll (a perfect picnic spot) and still make it safely back to
the car (assuming you’ve taken a torch).
The views from Wansfell will take your breath away; it’s one of the
finest fell-spotting spots in Cumbria – from Red Screes to the north,
around to the Langdale Pikes and Bow Fell in the west and the Coniston
Fells further south – and all with Windermere stretching away below.
There is also an assortment of routes leading directly out of
Ambleside to the summit – which means they also lead directly back into
Ambleside and the many pubs and restaurants there, should you require
some post-hike sustenance. Not that I’m obsessed with food and drink or
anything…
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